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Old 08-06-2016   #21
 
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More on the work.....

After close inspection the inner bearing needs replacement because of my graceful(not) removal of the inner bearing seal. Since I'm doing that I'll replace the outer one as well.

My spindle is a tapered one with a 1 3/8 inner diameter and 1 1/8 outer. so I actually need two different size bearings. It seems pretty common so I just need to figure out where to get it from.

That being said - it seems there is a great variety in the quality of bearings. Timken is supposedly one of the top ones and they make a kit (here) that includes a lot of stuff I don't need. I guess I could buy the parts separate but by then I'm still pretty close to the kit.

I haven't pulled the other side off yet but will after I get this side all back together.

Any guidance on other companies that supply quality bearings? This is really something I don't want to roll the dice with. Also - most of these kits come with the races - but it seems my hub has them "integrated" so I assume I just toss the ones that come with the kit?

Oh - and as far as water. My wheels almost NEVER go into the water.

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Old 08-06-2016   #22
 
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If the trailer has some years on it you might want to consider getting a new axle assembly. You can get a complete assembly for under 200. As far as bearings go any us made bearing will do just stay away from the imports from northern tool or harbor freight.

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Old 08-06-2016   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Paul7 View Post
If the trailer has some years on it you might want to consider getting a new axle assembly. You can get a complete assembly for under 200. As far as bearings go any us made bearing will do just stay away from the imports from northern tool or harbor freight.
This is a 3500lb (2 3/8") capacity axle and I can tell you the assembly would be WAY more than $200 for this axle.

Looking around it's really hard to find which bearings are made in the US. Even US based companies are now mfg bearings overseas or often in Mexico.
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Old 08-06-2016   #24
 
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I don't know exactly what you have but here's something that must be similar.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axl...45I-EZ-89.html

As far as bearings I just go to a store that sells nothing but bearings Google something bet you have such a store near you.

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Old 08-06-2016   #25
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Read_N_Run View Post
More on the work.....

After close inspection the inner bearing needs replacement because of my graceful(not) removal of the inner bearing seal. Since I'm doing that I'll replace the outer one as well.

My spindle is a tapered one with a 1 3/8 inner diameter and 1 1/8 outer. so I actually need two different size bearings. It seems pretty common so I just need to figure out where to get it from.

That being said - it seems there is a great variety in the quality of bearings. Timken is supposedly one of the top ones and they make a kit (here) that includes a lot of stuff I don't need. I guess I could buy the parts separate but by then I'm still pretty close to the kit.

I haven't pulled the other side off yet but will after I get this side all back together.

Any guidance on other companies that supply quality bearings? This is really something I don't want to roll the dice with. Also - most of these kits come with the races - but it seems my hub has them "integrated" so I assume I just toss the ones that come with the kit?

Oh - and as far as water. My wheels almost NEVER go into the water.
Each part should have part numbers stamped on them. I usually go to Napa with nicely cleaned parts and come back with new ones for under $20 a side. I believe they are usually Timkin, but I'm not towing the space shuttle so I typically don't worry too much.

My wheels go into the water @most ramps, all three boat trailers. It's really not that big of a deal, the're designed to get wet.

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Old 08-06-2016   #26
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I paid $220 for a 3500lb axle built by some local company here in boise... i'd have a hard time believing that you would spend *way* more any place else with a population similar to Boise.

etrailer has your exact axle for less than $200
Dexter Trailer Axle with Idler Hubs - 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 89" Long - 3,500 lbs Dexter Trailer Axles 35545I-ST-89
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Old 08-06-2016   #27
 
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Yep - my bad. I'm just not sure I want to go replacing the entire axle when just the bearings would suffice. The trailer is probably about 4 or 5 years old.
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Old 08-06-2016   #28
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yeah, as long as the spindle is okay and you haven't eaten that up. My trailer was a good 30+ years old when I replaced it's axle, I should have repacked the bearings a long time prior, I waited for a wheel to fall off though. *HA* picked up the axle and an hour later, I was back in business.. I considered it cheap for what I did.
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Old 08-06-2016   #29
 
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Originally Posted by PhilipJFry View Post
yeah, as long as the spindle is okay and you haven't eaten that up. My trailer was a good 30+ years old when I replaced it's axle, I should have repacked the bearings a long time prior, I waited for a wheel to fall off though. *HA* picked up the axle and an hour later, I was back in business.. I considered it cheap for what I did.
Yea - spindle looks great. Figure what it really rides on are the bearings and the hubs. So I want to make sure I put some good quality bearings in.

I'm just seeing a lot of reviews for bearings of questionable origin. I'll check back in at Napa tomorrow to see if they carry Timkin bearings.
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Old 08-07-2016   #30
 
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the race is not "part of the hub".
a race is pressed in, or driven in with a mallet. drive the old one out with a hammer and a punch.

IF the hub as a "built in" race, throw that set up in the trash. i have NEVER seen a built in race in any hub of any kind.

bearing buddies seem like a great idea, but adding grease on a regular basis is a good way to make a mess. if grease gets past the seal, it attracts dirt. dirt in the grease will tear up the seal, leave it that way for a while and the dirt will also tear up the spindle where the seal sits.
pack the bearings properly with a quality grease and they should last a good long time. set up the bearings with zero end play but not too tight. spin the hub as you are tightening the nut. go TOO far and get the bearings tight, then back off the nut and tighten it down to snug, while turning the hub.

almost all trailer bearings i have looked at are set up loose. it is possible for the races to seat, and loosen up. checking the end play after a couple of uses is not a bad idea. bearings will never get tighter, only looser.
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