Trailer hub question - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-04-2016   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Read_N_Run View Post
Grease in on the outside of the wheel (rim). There is no grease leaking from the bearing buddy or on the shaft what so ever. I'll take a better look tonight and see if I can see where it's leaking from.
If it's leaking from the BB/hub interface, you won't see it leaking from my experience, you'll just see splatters on the wheel. It only leaks when heated and running - hence the splatters. Pressure builds up and pushes it out through a small gap and it gets flung out to the wheel. I've had this happen several times - try tapping the BB back in and snugging it up. If that doesn't work take it off, clean up the mating surfaces and inspect for burr's, nicks, etc. file them off if necessary. But usually just taking it off and cleaning the surfaces fixes the problem.

Edit - have you looked at the inner seal? You'll notice if that's leaking. Usually there will be a crust of dusty desiccated grease with some fresh oozing from somewhere. If you do replace the inner seal just clean and repack the bearings after you remove them (unless you notice something odd, or it's been a long while since replacement).

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Old 08-04-2016   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Read_N_Run View Post
Grease in on the outside of the wheel (rim). There is no grease leaking from the bearing buddy or on the shaft what so ever. I'll take a better look tonight and see if I can see where it's leaking from.
Bearing Buddies have a spring inside them and they put a little pressure on the grease when you pump them full. This positive pressure keeps the water from wanting to come in through the rear seal.

I agree with others about replacing the seal. Pull it back apart and look at the seal and it's mating surface on the axle. There might be a burr on the axle that cut the seal when you were installing it. If everything looks good, make sure you drive the new seal on straight and to the proper depth. Be careful you slide it together straight. Good luck.
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Old 08-05-2016   #13
 
Tucson, Arizona
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I was having the same issue until I replaced these:

https://www.loadrite.com/store/produ...roductid=17995

They may be pretty much standard in size. I just showed the counter guy what I wanted. He did not ask what they were for. Cured the problem.
The ones that I got were a generic brand. I notice this ad says not to use the buddy bearing caps.....
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Old 08-05-2016   #14
 
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I honestly don't think the grease is coming out of the end bb or from the cap that is covering the bb. Looking closer (ok...I'll post pictures soon) it /could/ be coming out from where the bb mates with the hub. I assume a few taps would remedy that but I haven't done it yet.

Looking at the inside of the wheel I didn't notice much grease so it's almost all going on the outboard side on the outside of the rim.
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Old 08-06-2016   #15
 
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I pulled the entire hub apart including the inner seal (which ate itself as I removed it). I was amazed at the sheer volume of grease that was in the hub, on the spindle and all over. Most of it was very dark black and pretty putrid.

I cleaned everything and of course I'm going to head off to get a new inner seal and probably a new cotter pin for the castle nut as well since it got a little gnarled when I pulled it.

The bearings look pretty reasonable - but I'm thinking since I have everything apart - why not replace it all. I haven't headed to the AP store yet but looking online it seems the kits run somewhere between $10-$15.

What's the going consensus - replace everything while I'm doing it?
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Old 08-06-2016   #16
 
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If it's a good bearing such as Timken no need to replace. Wash the old grease out with solvent look for pitting and color from heat then just repack. A good quality bearing can last a very long time. Make sure you don't over tighten the bearing. You should have just the smallest amount of wiggle when you're done. Take the time to actually pack the bearings don't rely on the bearing buddy.

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Old 08-06-2016   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Read_N_Run View Post
I honestly don't think the grease is coming out of the end bb or from the cap that is covering the bb. Looking closer (ok...I'll post pictures soon) it /could/ be coming out from where the bb mates with the hub. I assume a few taps would remedy that but I haven't done it yet.

Looking at the inside of the wheel I didn't notice much grease so it's almost all going on the outboard side on the outside of the rim.
That's what I was trying and apparently failed to say.

Sounds like you've been getting water in there for a while. Yes replace the bearings too - you're already 90% there.
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Old 08-06-2016   #18
 
pojoaque, New Mexico
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you're getting some good advice here, especially from elkhaven. i'd check the inside surface of the hub, where the BB presses in very carefully. Depending on how old the hub is and what kind of cap was in there, it's not uncommon to have a rust pitting or scoring from rough cap removal (think screwdriver gouge) or just plain wear or damage from lots of presses and removals. Should be able to clean any damage up as long as it's not too severe. The other thing I wonder about is if maybe too much grease was injected. In that case, the excess will seep out as soon as it gets warm.
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Old 08-06-2016   #19
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If you dunk the trailer in water I'd suggest marine grease for the hubs, not water, regular grease is fine. I don't replace bearings unless they give me indication they are bad or going bad, but I know what to look for. For a do it yourself person, you might be able to fine an entire hub kit that comes with bearing races already installed in the hub and all new parts. We have a place called Rockwell American I can order from here in Oregon. I'm sure you can find a place online if you can wait a few days. My bearing buddy did that too, pretty sure that mine bled out of the weep hole like it was designed to do.
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Old 08-06-2016   #20
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Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 etrailer Trailer Hubs and Drums AKIHUB-545-35-K

for example
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