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Old 03-27-2012   #11
Dipshit with the most.
carvedog's Avatar
Bellevue, Idaho
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,497
Originally Posted by strapman52 View Post
Hey Brasscap...I know this is real late (I have got to get out of the office more often), but to respond to all these great comments-

1. Regarding UV protection, polyester is, by far, the best material for UV protection. It is also best for chemicals. Abrasion resistance still excels in polyester, but you have to compare apples and apples. That is, thick nylon can seem to have better abrasion resistance because it takes longer to get through the thicker material. The rate of abrasion is still higher in nylon or polypro than it is in polyester.

2. Fraying at the cut end-trailer use is the absolute hardest on any strap. We don't iron our straps due to the labor involved (sorry). We do cut all our straps with hot cutters. You can reinforce that with a quick touch up with a BIC lighter (good to have even if you don't smoke).

3. We have 2 styles of our polyester. The first is our utility style. This is the style recommended for cam straps as it grips in the buckle better. Our PQ style is an extremely tight weave and a smooth finish. The graphics really "pop" on this material, but it is better used in your belts, duffel bag straps, suspenders, etc. If you use our PQ in cam straps, it is advised to further set the cam lever once the strap is tightened. You would do that by reaching under the cam lever and lifting up to get the teeth more solidly set against the webbing.

4. Powdercoating-after experimenting for several years, the fact remains that powdercoating buckles is not the best way to go. Despite our efforts, it is difficult to keep the powder out of the cams teeth. When the teeth get powder baked on, they get really slippery. We do offer factory plated black buckles that grip just fine. Other colors should probably be avoided. Keep the creativity limited to the webbing.

5. Regarding chemical resistance-it is our experience that chlorine has a very bad effect on polypropylene webbing. If you use chlorine in the kitchen, or if you use your boating straps at home around a pool or hot tub, you are likely to see the webbing turn to powder over time. This doesn't happen with polyester.

6. Nylon is the worst material to select for straps. Debates on nylon vs polypro have been going on since the 80's. Nylon is more expensive, so I have no financial incentive to knock the material. Here are a few FACTS...Nylon fades and bleeds. Your straps will look beat in a very short time. Nylon has the least UV resistance, unless that material has been specially ordered with extra treatment. Nylon absorbs moisture, so it rots and mildews if not properly stored. Nylon stretches. When you tighten a nylon strap on a trailer, it's not just pressure changes that will affect the straps being tight. Cold or wet conditions will cause the webbing to stretch and an otherwise tightened strap can loosen up considerably.

7. Polypro and polyester are both great choices for rafting/kayaking straps. Polyester can be custom printed in a permanent process that does not fade or bleed. Polyester is stronger, but the strap strength is determined by the weakest point and that is usually the buckle. Polyester has better chemical resistance.

Thanks for the opportunity to provide some input. I'll try to stay a lot more current. I welcome personal e-mails if you have questions not suitable for the forum or if you want to design your own custom straps.

Tom Foster
Hi Tom - your timing is perfect with this reply as I am thinking of replacing a couple of dry box and frame straps.

FTR - I have ordered and purchased straps and strapping material from all the manufacturers. I have ordered with Strapworks several times. I did have a shipping issue ( actually a non-shipping issue). Once the problem was discovered these guys were on it with repackaging the order and getting it out to me the same day for overnight delivery.

Shop with confidence.

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Old 03-27-2012   #12
Avatard's Avatar
portland, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,188
Same positive response here. Strap kits are economical

Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it "guaranteed", I will. I got spare time.
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Old 03-29-2012   #13
Meridian, Idaho
Paddling Since: 1998
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 113
Originally Posted by strapman52 View Post
Thanks for the opportunity to provide some input. I'll try to stay a lot more current. I welcome personal e-mails if you have questions not suitable for the forum or if you want to design your own custom straps.
Tom Foster
Tom, thanks for the explanation. Since you posted your input, I want to post mine. (I said I would do that in an earlier post from last year)

1. The strap material itself is very tough. I beat my straps to death, and they fly around my frame while traveling down the road. They have not frayed at all. (really none of my straps have and that is quite a few brands)

2. I needed to cut a few of mine down and with the Polyester it is much harder to get a clean cut, which is why I assume a heat knife is used at the factory. I tried a good pair of scissors and got a tiny fray at the ends which I did clean up with a lighter and they are fine. While they were hot, I did quickly pinch them between 2 small pieces of wood. Make sure your cutting device is sharp.

3. Although the material is slick, the cams hold well with an extra "reverse" pull on the cam handle. Re-seat after they get wet and you will be good to go for at least 4 days. (only overnighter I did last year was H.C. and I didn't have to re-tighten)

4. The only complaint I have is the loops in their loop straps are way too big. I had "chatted" with someone online before I ordered and I must have completely mis-understood what they were saying. We had discussed strap length (looped and unlooped) and I thought I was good to go until I had received the loops. They made them with about a 5-7" diameter (which shows that way on their website, but I had suggested a smaller loop) and that is way too loose to use effectively around a frame tube. I had to wrap the loop strap 2 times to get it to cinch down on the frame which made it a big too short. It works but it causes a slight fitment problem between my cooler and drybox. I would suggest, from a rafters point of view, that the loops be made just large enough to allow the cam to angle over and through the loop. This way the strap will "bite" onto the frame and not spin freely.

When the need comes, after more testing with the polyester straps in other locations of use, I will definitely use them again, but if I ever order a loop strap again, I will have the loops custom sized.

The vast array of color and pattern choices alone are enough for me to use them again, simply for that fact that I can now have straps like no one else.

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