Right— If you'll be trading off on the playcat (which I recommend for marriage maintenance) make sure that the frame you get is simple to adjust for leg-length and reach (i.e. of the seat, footbar, and oarstands, at least two of the three components need to be adjustable without major effort). Using NRS or Clavey oarstands rather than the rainbow type or welded ones lets you adjust the height as well. I've not looked at the SOTAR frames.
Heard nothing but good about SOTAR tubes. I've got a Jack's Cutthroat (13.5 ft. x 16-inch) that's really fun in Class IV without a load: handles like a Mini-Cooper. Got 4 d-rings per side rather than 3. Good move. Also used it as a support boat for 2-4 day trips with my varmint on the D-deck and my mate in a Pack Cat.
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My other favorite boat is a Jack's Flyer Cat (usually 14-ft. but I got him to build a 15-ft. x 19-inch version, with top chafes and double bottoms). It has a stable big-cat feel while still being easy to row, dodge rocks, etc. With a light load it's a play-cat. But it's gone down Deso and Lodore with two and a full load including ice-chest. So it can go either way: play or moderate support.
My oldest Jack's boat (a 2-seater Pack Cat) does have a slow leak on the end cone, as described. The three newer ones are airtight. In fact, the Flyer Cat tubes have been inflated for three months without losing air (except when I deflate them in the sun). They're hanging up under our deck and I just went out and thumped 'em. Tight.
Anyhow, shop around. As long as you stick with quality makes, the rule is AGSB (All Good, Some Better).
Chip