Built a frame for my new boat out of schedule 80 PVC.
I did this once before about 28 years ago. It lasted all the way till now. The new boat is enough wider that it is time to build a new one.
I'll try working this picture thing. First pic is of old frame.
It looks all wacked up because it was sawed on by my 9yr old once when he was having a brain fart. I had to widen it for a new boat on another occasion. Finally I had a big water bite out once where my old bucket boat was sucked under a ledge like a piece of toast twice.
All the parts can be obtained from a plumbing supply except for the sweeps, which come from an electrical supply store. They are standardized at a 9.5 inch radius. You could just use 45's, but the sweeps look cooler. About a $100 in parts.
PVC is a bit flexi so I put a piece of muffler pipe thru the back straight piece, then there is no bend. The plastic is nice for dragging around on stuff without scratching things. And you can store it outside leaning up from the dirt, no problem.
How I hook the oars up might be different than the usual. I stick a bolt with 3 nuts on it down into a section of PVC pipe (3.5"). All pipe is 2". So for this bolt thing you need these kind of home made clips. I sure they were made with muffler stock as well and some flat iron.
Bury the lightly greased bolts into epoxy. Don't freak about the centering being perfect. Once solid lay on floor and where the bolt may be a bit tilted that will roll to the low side, like a weight on a bike wheel. Plug the popcycles into your slightly tilted T fittings making the low side perpendicular to your frame.
Possible screw ups when I finished: I noticed that this time I used 1/2 inch bolts, but apparently used slightly larger ones before. So the clips work really free now. May be an improvement?
The lower part of the frame, for my feet, just barely touches the top of the inflatable floor where before there was an inch or two clearance. The ends of the sweeps have straight sections that may have allowed for some trimming back. You only need 1.5 inches for insertion into the fittings. Or, I could have used 45's. This may be no problem.
I put a little duct tape on the seat brackets inner face so they wouldn't slip sideways.
After the epoxy dries I pull the bolt out and put in a washer on top of the epoxy for the oar clip to swivel on.