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Old 07-30-2012   #11
Grand Junction, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2004
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Pressure Relief Valve Question

These valves are notorious for slow venting. I've gotten to the point where I clean mine at the beginning of each year.
Heads up when removing the pressure relief valve. The body remains inside and could be difficult to recover if moved a significant distance from the hole. I tie it in to make sure it does not get displaced.

A soapy water soak and manually opening and closing the valve works well, followed by a rinse/soak in fresh water.


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Old 08-02-2012   #12
theBoatPeople's Avatar
Danville, California
Paddling Since: 1970
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 190
A word of warning on all P.R. valves

This is not a chop to the quality of these valves, because most are made quite well.
What everyone needs to understand is that almost every raft any repair shop takes in with blown floor I-beams had a pressure relief valve. If they really worked, as opposed to providing a false sense of security, these shops would see far less of this problem. As it is, too much reliance on p.r.'s provide steady income for repairmen.
As was already stated, they tend to vent too slowly to keep up with rapid pressure increases on a hot day, and while sand can make them leak, much worse is when sand prevents them from opening.
So yes, clean or replace by all means, but better still use a pressure gauge if you don't know what the appropriate amount should feel like in your floor.
For boats with welded I-beams and/or perimeter seams, 2 p.s.i. should be okay. For hypalon boats, it depends. Hyside and NRS seem to have exceptionally solid glue work, as would the vulcanized Demaree's, and 1.8 to 2 p.s.i. should also be fine with them. With older rubber boats (i.e. Riken, Momentum, etc), or Avons or Achilles, I would not go above 1.5 p.s.i.

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