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Old 01-22-2012   #1
malloypc's Avatar
Albany, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2002
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 256
Patch / D-ring removal?

I installed some NRS footpegs, NRS Urethane Kayak Foot Braces at on a Bandit IK only to find they are too far forward and tend to pop loose due to being in the tapered end of the IK.
I used the Clifton urethane adhesive.
Any chance of removing the pads with heat from a hair dryer without damaging the boat? Other methods?


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Old 01-22-2012   #2
Golden, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1975
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 535
a good adjustable heat gun is best. take it slow. use needle nose type pliers to get started and peel back slowly as the glue softens. don't force it. i first focus the heat on patch/d-ring ect to heat it up thoroughly and then as i peel it up focus on the glue between the patch and tube. again, be patient and don't try to just rip it off. let that glue soften.

it's really pretty easy. just be careful and don't set your heat gun on your raft tubes when done...or rags soaked with toluene.

no idea on the hair dryer.

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Old 01-22-2012   #3
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,239
Well that answers a question from the inflatable customization thread,about how the NRS foot braces attach .

Malloypc , How do you like that boat ? Any durability issues? That is the one under 20 lbs. ,no? A hair dryer might not get hot enough . Heat guns are not very expensive. Upshitcreek's advice is dead on,except maybe call the manufacturer to confirm since it is urethane rather than pvc coated with urethane,probably still works the same.
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Old 01-22-2012   #4
BCJ's Avatar
Grand Junction, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 523
We had good experience with the Bandits Cayo. Can't say there are any durability issues. Used ours for 2-3 summers, including a Grand Trip. Do be careful about overheating though, for one reason - the round hole for the screw in A-7 valve can stretch. Mine did, but I still got a seal. By the way, Tear-Aid is awesome for patching these. We had one puncture on the SB floor from someone dropping a knife (really, no kidding). I put a small Tear-Aid patch on then a slightly larger Tear-Aid cover (no bigger than a half-dollar total) and it held solid, no leaks, thereafter. I never took it off. Didn't see the need to disturb it. Sold the boats last summer and as far as I know the Tear Aid patch is still going strong. For such light boats they are incredibly durable. I love that they can be rolled and carried so easily. Flew mine with me to Mexico once and Idaho once. Urethene is tough stuff.
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Old 01-22-2012   #5
malloypc's Avatar
Albany, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2002
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 256
Originally Posted by cayo 2 View Post
Malloypc , How do you like that boat ? Any durability issues? That is the one under 20 lbs. ,no?
I just got the Bandit last year and it's only been out a few times on the Rogue and some day runs.
No durability issues. It is just 20lbs. and rolls to a pretty compact size which I like a lot.

Thanks for the tip on the heat gun, I'll pick one up.

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Old 01-23-2012   #6
zbaird's Avatar
Paddling Since: 1994
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 884
Go slow and start with low heat. The better the glue job you did the harder it will be to get off. I havent had the pleasure of working on any of the NRS urethane yet so i cant tell you how much heat or pressure that particular fabric can take. Some materials do far better than others. Cheap laminated PVC will sometimes delaminate before a good glue bond breaks and most callendered hypalons will take a ton of heat before the fabric breaks down. Sound advice above on focusing on the glue bond breaking. If the material starts to delaminate go in from another angle with less heat and pressure to minimize damage. Needlenose pliers are good to get started but be careful. If you get to aggressive and or get the fabric or the pliers hot enough they can dig right in to the coating. I prefer a flatter tipped tool over needlenose.

zach baird
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