Originally Posted by mora2818
I assume the phone book option is to elevate my arse and create a similar down slope to the seat. I also have that seat and bar too to use for my fishing frame setup.
Oarboatman, where did you pick up your brass fitting. That might adjust them enough to make the difference.
If you raise the oar locks a bit its going to increase the position of the oars during normal paddling. You may find you want to sit higher to get the oars to feel comfortable. As long as you don't raise your knees you solve the issue by raising your seat.
The phone book is a fast and cheap way of adding that height while dialing your boat in.
I'm assuming you have a standard NRS style frame and can put the foot bar away from you a little. That will help straighten your legs which will help lower your knees. You may have to sit further back on your box but then having your butt elevated won't feel like the front of the drybox is keeping your legs from having a downslope.
On gear boat I run 72" frame, 6" towers, 10' oars, and I have a drybox with a seat mounted above it. I haven't had it in the water this year with this setup but last year I had blocks under my seat to get it to that height and it rowed fine.
I set the towers about in line with my knees. I have my rower bay set up so that with the feet in the nrs deluxe footbar that my legs have just a slight bend. This makes my rowing bay probably longer than I'd want for conserving space. But that way on a stroke I can fully use my legs straight which gives me extra power in my torso. If I need more power I can always push against the top crossbar in front of me.
If I need to pull my oars in I drop them down into the rowing bay just over my feet. The blades then are up angled somewhere in line with where my head is. This almost always gives me enough clearance to avoid hitting a big obstacle (rock) if I get too close to it.