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Hypalon Patching Question

10K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  jspoon14 
#1 ·
Newb, here. Great forum.

A friend just gave me an old Campways 14' hypalon raft. It needs a variety of minor repairs, and then I'll start modifying/customizing the frame for my uses. Right now, though I need to apply a few patches over spots where the frame meets the tubes and has caused serious wear, and I want to glue down a few loose edges on a variety of spots. The boat holds air, though there might be some minor leaks, I'll search for those later.

I've got Clifton Hypalon adhesive and appropriate patch material. Some instructions I've read call for cleaning the surface with toluene, another I ran across said cleaning with alcohol was sufficient. What's the real story here? I'd rather not work with toluene if I don't have to, but I'll strap on an organics mask and do it if it really makes a difference.
 
#2 ·
opinions vary as to how essential the use of Toulene is in the process

I would say that I've had the best luck making patchs stick when I thuroughly rough both the raft and the patch, clean them both with Toulene, spread a very thin quantity of glue onto both, wait for it to dry until shiny, spread another very thin layer, wait for it to dry until shiny (15 minutes), then apply and rub very vigorously with a roller or coin smoothing out all the bubbles. Also, it seems that the glue very readily absorbs water vapor so a cool and dry climate is ideal - shouldn't be a problem in Idaho.

Don't know how close you are to one of the manufacturers but I've found that I have a lot better luck with the industrial strength glue too.
 
#3 ·
I would say that about sums it up. You definatly dont want it to be too cold outside. I was trying to do some boat repair in Dec in Colorado and it was much more difficult than it needed to be. You dont want the glue to set up anywhere where it will be too cold.

If you let the glue sit too long in between adding layers you can re-activate the glue by wiping some toluene across it.

But you probably want dont want to take patching advice from me (as Matt and Kristen might remember) ;)
 
#6 ·
another point of view:

check out jack's plastics info on doing "straight hypalon and neoprene repairs".

Using Our Adheasive for Inflatable Boat Repair_Jack's Plastic Welding inc

i have used his method for years now and have had excellent results.

good luck and have fun,

bob
I've never done a patch before and I read the Jacks Repair page and it's like listening to two schizophrenic people with multiple personalities. I mean it jumps around a bit. What I want is a 1,2 3,4 steps procedure without the tangent side tracks of but if, but if, but if's in the middle. Just tell me how to do a patch. then explain why I should use the touloune or why I should rough it up, or not squeeze bubbles, or at what temperature or an inside patch. The basics are the most important part. what ever... There I go, now I'm doing it.

i like the the way Matt J put it and the reference to estimated times.
by the way I have Jacks Tubes and I'm happy with the product.
 
#5 ·
I haven't tried the Jack's Plastic technique but it seems a bit excessive. I've used the technique Matt has described, with the only difference being that I used to let the second coat dry only until tacky before applying the patch. The key to any hypalon boat repair is thoroughly removing all of the old glue and then roughening the surface so the new adhesive can bond effectively. Shore adhesive didn't seem to work that well but Clifton's, as recommended by NRS, seemed to hold. Don't know about the cleaning with toluene. We used to do it and it didn't seem to affect the strength of our repairs but Jack's is saying otherwise.
 
#7 ·
Thanks, all. I'll follow Matt's recommendation, which means finding some toluene (do they still sell this stuff at hardware stores, or do I need to find a chem supplier?) and digging up the organic vapors mask. I've gotten really picky about breathing volatile fumes, did enough damage to the lungs as a young man, don't want to pile on now that I'm theoretically older and smarter.

But definitely looking forward to some rafting fun this summer.
 
#12 ·
thanks Calandar16

I agree with Spankey, that Jack's Plastic instruction was making me schizophrenic...

Never done a patch myself but I read the NRS instructions before I go to bed and when I wake up daily so that I remember how when you need it most...making flash cards helps too...

NRS instructions...hope this helps...

NRS - Hypalon Repair Instruction
OK, now thats some instructions. I am printing it and it will say with my glue just in case I don't remember or have a question it will be there.
Thanks again Calandar16


how old can glue be and still work? last years glue? is it still OK. How will the ranger know when I bought it? I think safty first so I guess buying new glue each year would be wise but how do I know how old the glue I bought already is?
 
#10 ·
One other thing - re-roll the patch about 1-2 hours after applying it. It helps. Also if it is cool when you are patching a blow dryer can help heat up the glue on the patch and on the boat before applying the patch.

Most painting stores sell Toulene along with the other solvents like acetone, mek, paint thinner, etc.
 
#11 ·
Toluene

Thymol To Toluene And Toluene - Cole-Parmer Catalog[
Cole Palmer Sells Toluene
$39.10 a liter

A friend just gave me an old Campways 14' hypalon raft. It needs a variety of minor repairs, and then I'll start modifying/customizing the frame for my uses. Right now, though I need to apply a few patches over spots where the frame meets the tubes and has caused serious wear, and I want to glue down a few loose edges on a variety of spots. The boat holds air, though there might be some minor leaks, I'll search for those later.

I've got Clifton Hypalon adhesive and appropriate patch material. Some instructions I've read call for cleaning the surface with toluene, another I ran across said cleaning with alcohol was sufficient. What's the real story here? I'd rather not work with toluene if I don't have to, but I'll strap on an organics mask and do it if it really makes a difference.[/quote]
 
#13 ·
The only thing I do different from Matt J is I use low heat from a heat gun as I'm rolling it. I also reroll the patch or D-ring I'm installing several times in the first few hours of installing. Good luck and use Clifton glue for best results on Hypolon.

If the glues been unopen it should last at least a year or two. Most have shelf life printed on the label. Stabond hardener is one product I've found to go bad in a short amount of time. If the clear jar of hardener that comes with it is dark in color, don't buy it. It needs to be light brown and clear, not cloudy.
 
#15 ·
videos of patching

Some video links of patching on youtube


YouTube - Raft repair on the Salt River
YouTube - Fixing a hole in an eighteen foot Sotar whitewater raft


building a raft/boat with glue
YouTube - RIB Tubes Inflatable Boat Tubes Part 1 www.tidel.biz
YouTube - RIB Tube Repairs Inflatable Boat Tubes Part 2 www.tidel.biz
YouTube - RIB Tubes Inflatable Boat Tubes Part 3 www.tidel.biz

maybe Jack at Jacks Plastic Welding will send in a video of how they hot air weld their tubes together and how they RF ( radio frequency) weld the "D" rings, handles and logo's on. I've seen it and it is most impressive. Nice guy that Jack is.
 
#16 ·
I am working on a ducky and trying to remove the foot pegs and put them further down the tube. I was able to get the holsters off with a dryer. I am in the cleaning stage and am wondering what the best way to get the existing glue off to prepare the surface.

I bought some shore adhesive before reading this and was wondering what people thought of it before I go out and get some Clifton glue. I am just making glueing the holsters back on and not making repairs.


Any thoughts?
 
#19 ·
Its all about the molecule, as far as I understand toluene is critical. This why you use MEK on PVC and not Toluene.

I am not an expert but I have done a lot of repair work on boats that I have had over the years, including taking 5' of a snout tube.

The preparation is critical, humidity and temp are very important. All the steps stated above are correct, rough up the area, apply two thin coats and wait for each to fully dry. The one tip I would add that made all the difference in my work is to use a toluene wash to reactivate the adhesive and then apply your patch.

You can wait days between the last application and the wash so there is not rush on time. Just don't leave it in the sun because the UV will set the adhesive for good. This also why you should clean up any excess glue out side of the patch immediately, if you don't it will be there forever.

Hope this helps.
 
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