Originally Posted by CO.rafter
Does it stay centered?
I drilled two holes and put in sheet-metal screws with big dome heads to keep the u-bolts from slipping sideways. The back of the frame member is probably the best place for this, since there's not much stress in that direction. You could use some sort of collar with a setscrew or even a hoseclamp.
The black plastic grid floor is PolyMax kennel and brooder flooring from:
Industrial Ceiling Fans, PEX Tubing, Stainless Steel Fasteners, Industrial Machinery Storage Buildings from TekSupply
Here's an old post with photos of a floor I built:
Cat floor tricks
Having decided the wood-framed floor I built several years ago for this boat was shaky, I made a new one of PolyMax grid. I added a center support and 2 SpeedRail tee-E joints (lighter than the wood frame with aluminum channel and bar reinforcement). Since PolyMax comes in 24" x 48" panels and the distance between the cat tubes is 30", it couldn't be symmetrical in both directions. So I trimmed the length of two pieces and cable-tied them together. (I could've rebuilt the frame to 48" inside width, but I like a narrow rig).
The wide center rib (on the right side) looks sketchy, but so what. The main fasteners holding it to the frame are stainless hoseclamps. The leading edge of the floor (at bottom) has a piece of aluminum channel cable-tied over the edge of the grid, then covered with foam pipe insulation and more cable ties.
Since hoseclamps have sharp edges, I used some 1/2" vinyl tubing that slides snugly over the clamp band. This is the top view.
This is the underside. Note that the sharp end of the clamp band slips inside the end of the vinyl tubing. I cut off some of the bands with tin snips, nipped the corners, and filed off the sharp edges.
This shows two 4 ft. straps woven through the grid and around the bars. Wet the straps and crank it. Otherwise they'll get sloppy. I put the straps where my feet go when I stand up to scout. (It flexes, but not anything like those mesh trampoline floors).