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Cargo frame

11K views 39 replies 17 participants last post by  Wavester 
#1 ·
So I plan on building a cargo frame for a 15'6" Sotar Legend for the long hauls (Grand, etc...). I have the resources to fabricate, weld, etc... but would appreciate some input from y'all. I'm thinking of a similar design to the Recretec cargo frame (pictured here), but with an extra bay where marked that would be identical to the rower's "leg" bay, and not include those "splash guard" footrests that are marked with the "X's." Also, should I weld it all or keep it as a breakdown model like the original design? I'm thinking welded. The overall length for a "5bay" would be appx. 8'6" long. That leaves 3'6" of cat tube extending past the frame on each end. Please let me hear your comments. Thanks!
 

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#2 ·
The oarstands will end up either toward the front or the rear of the frame depending on where you sit and which direction you row. I've seen some catboaters, especially those in Idaho, sit and row toward the front with the load and passengers behind. I prefer the oars stands to be in the middle of the boat
 
#3 ·
With the modular designs come flexibility. I have had the exact design you are contemplating. Good big water design. Went modular with the last bay and was glad I did. Front load the boat easily done, move the module to the rear to even out the load. Short trips, leave the module home... $.02
 
#4 ·
I built a frame for a 16.8 legend, and am just finishing a frame for a 14 foot legend. Be careful of your overall length, remembering the legend has quite a bit of rocker compared to some cat tubes. Make sure you do not overrun the chaff strips. I elected to run a trailer off the back end of the big boat, which gives you much of the versatility of a modular, and can be sized exactly for your drybox. I ran a double rail, I think 78 or 80 wide on the big boat, and found 10 foot oars to be a bit short. That design you lay out seems to have a lot of floor space. Remember that much of the beauty of a cat is not having a floor. Weigh down a cat and it becomes a pain in the ass to row. If you need a floor, you should get a raft.
 
#5 ·
I am used to rowing "Idaho style" with my NRS setup I have now. If I make this frame with the 5 bays, I could row the same way, or row from the rear with most of the heavier gear and passenger in the front. Not sure which row style is better for a Grand Canyon style trip or if it is just a matter of opinion. I have a 14' Sotar ST Elite cat right now w/7'frame, but will be getting the 15'6" (maybe custom to 16") Sotar Legend tubes. I am concerned about the difference in rocker between the two designs, and will hold off on final frame decisions until I actually get the tubes, but am hoping that I can get away with a 66" wide 8'6" long frame. I forgot to mention that I don't plan on having floors on this frame, but will have scout bars instead. Like I said, the picture is a reference, but seems ideal for what I want; organized space/storage, easy access, and comfortable.
 
#7 ·
Not sure of the shape of the sotar tubes but i run a 12' frame on an 18' aire leopard

I guess if you can weld and bend you can extend the frame past the flats.

I'd make It breakdown but far more tight and rigid then the recretec.

Also use shallower dryboxes as the cats meow's belly droops low and unless you run only big water, you will bottom it out on anything less than 28" tubes
 
#17 ·
Cats Meow Belly droop

Not true anymore my friend. The old Cats Meow...that was the case. We do not droop the belly more than 1" above center of your tubes anymore. So if you have a 24" tube, the bottom of the frame and floor is an 11" drop. Also, If you want more tight and rigid that is fine however you will need to at least double the wall thickness of the tubing and add cross supports to compensate for no allowable flex. We see these frames 20 years old all the time without any issues and it is specifically due to the fits and articulation allowed. Its also the lightest frame on the market that has succeeded for 37 years! :).
 
#8 ·
Ditto on having the oars in the center. I would do the following:
Bay 1: Drybox
Bay 2: Cooler
Bay 3: Oarsman
Bay 4: Drybox (as seat)
Bay 5: Dropbag with table for cover

You can move the bays around as you see fit, but I like the oars in the center of the raft. My 16ft GC rig was setup with four bays:
Bay 1: Drop bag is seat
Bay 2: Rower and two captains boxes
Bay 3: Cooler (as seat)
Bay 4: Drop Bag with table
Although it was a raft, I loved the setup and could see it working on a cat too.

Also as far as modular goes, you may want to think abut the type of river you are running most often and design a frame to fit, then build a trailer frame to setup for the big ditch and other longer runs.
 
#34 ·
Ditto on having the oars in the center. I would do the following:
Bay 1: Drybox
Bay 2: Cooler
Bay 3: Oarsman feet
Bay 4: Drybox (as seat)
Bay 5: Dropbag with table for cover

I run a similar set up on 16' x 25' sotar, worked great on the GC.

More cat frame info Full lengh web floor
Floor 135"x 42 7/8". From front to back 19" web flooring for front passengers feet
Next 15" kitchen dry box can hold 2 seats, next 19" cooler space, next 22' oarsman footwell, next 15"dry box and oarsman's seat and lastly a 36 2/4 gear storage area.
Double side rails 13" wide by 99 3/4 long centered on frame floor.
 
#9 ·
I run a 14 X 24 Cat with a 66 X 96 NRS frame with 5 bays. Cooler, rower bay, flip seat over a dry box, cargo bay, second dry box. 96 inches is the max frame length for my cat and I use every inch to my advantage. I had Partner Steel make my dry boxes to my specs. and as Avatard pointed out, I made them a bit more shallow. I also prefer a more centered rowing position.
My rafting buddy runs a 14 X 24 cat with a Recretec frame similar to the one in your picture. 4 bays with no splash guards. 2 dry boxes, rower bay, and cargo/passenger foot bay.
I'll attach a few pictures. Not the best views but you can get an idea. The Teal cat is mine, and the dark green is my buddy's. In one picture, he has un-latched and removed the kitchen dry box that we take to camp.
 
#10 ·
Kj is your flip seat from aaainflatables? If you remove the cooler/drybox, flip the seat, and then suspend it level where ideally it would be resting on the box, what is the elevation from the top of the crossbar to the bottom of the plate? (ideally you'd have a foam or rubber spacer in here to prevent marring from the seatbolts
 
#16 ·
Hey Avatard. Yes, my seat is from AAA. I just had knee surgery, so I can't go out and measure my seat at the moment. AAA will make the rise to your specs if you need something other than their standard height. Mine is over a dry box that is suspended from my frame with hang tabs. Not as elevated as a DRE type flip seat, but slightly higher than the standard NRS seatbar. Pretty much like sitting on the dry box, just with a seat. I really prefer rowing from seat, and this was a good compromise to save space for a dry box.
 
#11 ·
You could go with something like this frame also on Legend tubes. Set up in my backyard to measure for oars, cant wait for them to get here! But I'm curious about one thing, why the large Legend tubes? With Sotars pricing you might be better off with their 18' ST tubes and since it's a GC gear hauling rig you could increase the diameter of the tubes by one inch at no charge. The ST tubes might be better suited for large loads on multiday trips.
 

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#12 ·
I would definitely wait for the tubes to draw up the frame. These tubes have a surprising amount of rocker. I like the idea of going with a narrower frame, as it will allow you to use 10 foot oars. For big water you lose a little stability, but if you are doing anything else, what you gain is worth it. I also went with scout bars. When sizing them, be careful not to create a foot entrapment problem against the drop bar, a common mistake.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for so much input everyone. I think I've made the following choices so far:

Legend tubes stretched and fattened just ever so slightly, 66" wide 5bay frame (length TBD), welded (cuz I'm tired of building each time), Idaho or stern row style (I just prefer Idaho for hole punching stuff that others are afraid of flipping in), and shallower dryboxes for the clearance send like a great tradeoff.
 
#15 ·
Sounds like a nice do it all rig:D


Thanks for so much input everyone. I think I've made the following choices so far:

Legend tubes stretched and fattened just ever so slightly, 66" wide 5bay frame (length TBD), welded (cuz I'm tired of building each time), Idaho or stern row style (I just prefer Idaho for hole punching stuff that others are afraid of flipping in), and shallower dryboxes for the clearance send like a great tradeoff.
 
#14 ·
Catman said:
Thanks for so much input everyone. I think I've made the following choices so far:

Legend tubes stretched and fattened just ever so slightly, 66" wide 5bay frame (length TBD), welded (cuz I'm tired of building each time), Idaho or stern row style (I just prefer Idaho for hole punching stuff that others are afraid of flipping in), and shallower dryboxes for the clearance send like a great tradeoff.
If you are having custom made you might look into a trapezoidal base that allows the drybox lid to be wider than the drop rails and tube to tube clearance. I'm no rocket scientist but isnt it a few more bends to make a beveled bottom? Might offset some of the loss in volume from the shallower box
 
#23 ·
The frame is 76" long and 66" wide, 36" between the tubes. It's a breakdown frame and it's extremely light. The tubes are 13' Legend. I also have a small day frame and probably 90% of the time that is the frame I'll be using for day trips here in Northern Ca with this boat. But I wanted a frame for lightly loaded over nighters like the Rogue next week.
For you I would recommend Sotars ST 15.6 ST tubes and I would have them build it 6" longer OR a couple of inches bigger diameter (no extra charge).
You basically end up with a Jagaurundi or Lion type cat that is perfect for what your trying to do. And a bigger frame with more space between the tubes, approx 40" between the tubes so you can fit a standard size 120 qt cooler and a simular size drybox. The Rec 72 frame is a nice one imo and he will build it to your specs, just tell him what your trying to do. I'm impressed by some of the features on this Recretec frame and I've owned frames from NRS, DRE and AAA as well.
 
#30 ·
What I would do is use the frame for your 14er which is probably 66" wide and simply make a additional cargo modual or two for a drop box or with a bilge bag. That way when your not geared up for the grand you can use your boat with out lugging the monstosity around. Rember the Grand is a once a year run at best I hope to boat once a week and plan for that.
 
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