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Old 07-17-2011   #1
crested butte, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1988
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 22
Advice on a frame for my minime

Post says it all..need help...what size oars should I use? My guess is I will be in the back with someone up front to balance things out. Doesn't need to be super fancy as it won't be used very much but would be nice to have on an overnighter.

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Old 07-17-2011   #2
kremmling, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 3
seat over thort kick bar up front or to much in back "flipyme" 6' I'd say good one's with leashes talk to down river

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Old 07-17-2011   #3
Boise, Idaho
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 427
Depends on how wide you go with frame/oar towers. I have a trib 9.5sb and people have built frames for it using 8.5 ft oars. Much less and I would be worried about lack of leverage. Talk to gary at as he should be able to get you a good frame with stands and locks shipped for 200 ish. NRS also had a frame for your boat for a decent deal but Gary's frames are better...
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Old 07-18-2011   #4
Whoapiglet's Avatar
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 296
I would go for a NRS frame for the only reason that their oar towers can be adjusted to add 4-5 inches of width to your frame rails. All the other stock options, AAA, rowframe, DRE etc, are a bit narrow (AAA is the narrowest) this isn't a big deal on larger boats, but on a 5 foot wide boat, it is significant. you can only run 7.5 ish oars if you don't figure out something that makes the oarlocks wider. I did a custom thing, and use 8.25' oars. whatever strength difference there is between 1.5 and 1.25" pipe is negligible on such a small boat (never really loaded down)

Another thing to think about is if you have it set up like I do in the second pic for two folks, if you want to solo row, you have to be able to reconfigure the frame (basically swapping the footbar for the seat bar) so you are sitting centered in the boat. other wise, you are filling coolers with water etc to keep you from doing back flips. NRS will do this as will 'fitting frames" like i have but frames with fancy bent corners likely will not because the front and rear bends lock you into only one design. u can't remove the seat bar, and if you could (AAA) it is too short to become the center bar due to the width taken up by the bent pieces.

I had a trib 9.5 which I then traded up for a Hyside Mini Max and went thru all this with both boats. below is the oar towers I have for the mini. Rowframe made the tees, and AAA makes the tower (rotated 180 degrees from how they set it up for maximum width).

Enjoy the mini. Just R2'd browns including twin falls and seidels this weekend. the mini charged the meat on everything with no flips or issues of any kind. Can't imagine wanting to take the 13.5 footer out anytime soon.
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Old 07-18-2011   #5
FatmanZ's Avatar
NOCO, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1990
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 582
Nice setup piglet!

I run 8' oars on my 10' NRS raft (5'8" wide w/ 20" tubes) and I'm wishing I had 8.5' oars instead. The oars I have work fine unless someone shorter is rowing the raft, or if I'm rowing in shallow water.

My frame is a one piece steel tube (heavy) job that I bought used for $100 and cut it down to fit my raft, then had a friend weld it up. The frame is heavy with the heavier gauge steel tubing and full seat. I removed the foot bar and instead brace off the rear front seat bar - something I'd change if I had to do it over again, esp since shorter rowers can't reach the bar. The oar towers don't adjust, and the frame is just long enough that passengers on the front bench are clear of the oars. The big downsides are the front bench area isn't wide enough to fit a cooler between the bars, and I really have to cheat the frame far forward as I can when rowing solo to keep from doing stern squirts and backflips.
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Old 07-18-2011   #6
John the welder's Avatar
Delta, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1971
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 161
I like 8 foot oars. The spare does not stick out form each end of the boat and you have pleanty of power. Weight can be an issue if you plan to to the gunny. Some frames weight more then the boat. You also don't need a foot rest.
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Old 07-19-2011   #7
crested butte, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1988
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 22
thanks you guys!
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Old 07-19-2011   #8
John the welder's Avatar
Delta, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1971
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 161
There are some pics. of my boat on the buzz. Call me at work for more info. 970 874 5737 Delta Co.
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Old 04-25-2012   #9
gobigohome's Avatar
Golden, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 152
Now that people have had a little more time to test there frames and oar lengths, did anybody come up with any set-ups that work the best. I just picked up a mini and am siked to get a frame on it. The idea of being able to place the seat forward for solo trips and then be able to use the same frame for a cooler, dog, or other pasenger sounds awesome. does anybody have any pics of this set-up ? thanks Buzzards
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Old 04-25-2012   #10
Rifle, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 93
minime frame

I have a minime and a frame that I built. the frame is positioned so the seat sets over one thwart and the drop bar positioned where the deflated thwart is. When solo on day trips I'll strap some gear and/or amo boxes to the front deck, then also strap in a 5 gallon square water jug to balance the weight.
I use 8' counter-balanced cataracts. The counter balance saves fatigue at the end of the day. You will love how your boat will handle.

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