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A different approach to building a double rail frame.

33K views 49 replies 25 participants last post by  Zorba the Geek 
#1 ·
OK, I have just about wrapped up my frame building project, so I thought it would be a good time to share some ideas and pics.

I started out with the idea of bending up a tubular frame, welding in some aluminum diamond plate for the side decking, and welding spuds to the side pieces that I could snap-pin the cross bars to for a break down frame. Some wise people on the Buzz suggested that it would be a good idea to make the frame adjustable, and to not weld it together.

I took their advice, went back to the drawing board, and designed a fitting that would be adjustable, support double side rails, have a means to support/fasten the side decking, and quickly disconnect from the crossbars with snap pins, while keeping the side assemblies (fittings, double rails and decking) together as a unit.

After many hours on my CAD, and a few different versions, I came up with something I liked. I purchased some stock, fabricated some tooling, and machined the fittings. Here is what I came up with:



Fittings on the double rails:




Frame Assembled:



With side decking (I'm still waiting for the stainless fasteners to hold the decking down):




The cross bars can be used as double side rails for a day frame setup. (I have a drop bag that fits the front bay, and will make a plywood or HDPE cover for it.):




Someday, if I buy another raft that has different tube spacing, all I will need to do to make this frame work is to fabricate another set of crossbars. And if for some reason I want to completely change the layout, it can be done easily.

It has been a fun project, and I am very happy with how it turned out.

Thanks for looking!
 
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#29 ·
Thanks Chip!

I have read your threads on frames...really good stuff. It has got me looking at the JPWINC website frequently and staring at the cutthroat tubes, I've got the itch to make a lightweight setup like you have......all I need is more time.....maybe this winter?

Nice work too! There are so many innovative people on this site that have good ideas, put them into action and then post the results for the benefit of everyone. Good stuff, and is what makes the 'Buzz such a great place....I've found nothing else like it.



Ngeoym, I think teflon would be a good choice, I have something similar in mind. I will do some testing, see how it works and then will post what I find.


Shapp, I don't know anything about drift boats....what do they make the bushings out of? Some sort of plastic?
 
#30 ·
I don't know why NRS doesn't make taller towers too. If you sit on a cooler or drybox, even the 8" ones are too short for many/most. I have my towers out the outer rail of a double rail frame, and it is great since I like longer oars (10' on 14' boat). If you liked shorter oars it might be an issue, perhaps. Plus then I can strap gear down onto the deck and it is easily accessible on the inside of the towers.

Sweet frame, time for a patent. You don't make money by making things, you make money by inventing things and having people who make them pay you! Go for it.
 
#37 ·
If you have the tools and ability to build those I bet you could make something better than those.
Just make a brass ring that is the size of your oar lock.
Heat it up to red hot.
Dunk it in a silicone wet lube.
The oil will impregnate the brass ring and when the brass ring gets warm from use it will slowly ooz the grease. A good Long term solution that might work for you...
 
#38 ·
Just make a brass ring that is the size of your oar lock. Heat it up to red hot. Dunk it in a silicone wet lube. The oil will impregnate the brass ring and when the brass ring gets warm from use it will slowly ooz the grease.
Have you done this?

I don't think red-hot brass soaks up anything. So you'll get thick smoke, maybe a fire.

I make brass bushings for oarlocks, and use a dab of water-resistant grease. Not as dramatic, but it works.
 
#40 ·
That welded on oarstand is a perfect setup for a drift boat. I would not want it along on a ww trip though. Permanant equipment without built-in "give" will usually end up ripped off and resting on the bottom after a flip and subsequent rock slams before being forced into an eddy by a rescue crew. I will stick with the NRS style stands due their ability to take a major hit and come up needing only minor adjustments post carnage. Same said about the "slop" built into the stand bushing and lock shaft; water and dirt are going to get into everything I own on the river, thats the nature of the beast. Servicing a noisy oarlock takes what, a paper towel, some lube, 5 minutes time and a cold beer every two years or so? That being said, I am loving this rowboat engineering orgy.
 
#41 ·
Cut to the chase: oarstands for double-rail frames can be makeshift (as shown) and still work very well.



These adjust fore-and-aft. It wouldn't be terribly difficult to set them up for inboard/outboard travel, but I don't need it on this boat.

This is just to illustrate that mounting oar towers on double-rail frames is straightforward and bombproof.

You'd have to go out of your way to screw it up.
 
#42 ·
My take on them.

I ended up with some downtime in the shop, so I took a look at HMPG's pics and did up my own fittings- I really liked what he did, but wanted some more rigging points, so I figured what the heck!


I talked it over with HMPG and he indicated that he had no problem with me offering them up to other members of the buzz if there's interest.... I'm tooling up to make another run for a different application, so I figured I'd offer the chance to get in on them. PM me for pricing etc. but it will be right in line with what he quoted earlier.


I figured something that looks so good might as well be brightly colored... (I mostly wanted to see how they took an anodize)
 

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#47 ·
Question- why use those fittings at all of your cross bars? Why not have the internal cross bars (as opposed to external being at the far front/rear) just attach to the internal rails? Is it so you have the same height for attaching your decking? I'm wondering, because it seems lot a lot of additional weight where it isn't needed structurally.

They are sweet though! I'm in the process of modifying my frame, and those are really interesting......
 
#49 ·
I checked out Zorbas fittings in person. Very nice stuff and I'd like to make a frame using them. However I want diamond plate side decks due to weight and maintenance concerns. Any thought on how to support diamond plate using these fittings since the fittings are elevated above the side rails and spaced about 22" apart? I was thinking maybe some rubber pads secureing to the underside of the deck at the same height as the fittings.

Also, someone on a different thread recommending aluminum bleacher seats for side decks MARKSTAAR - Aluminum Planks - Category Details . Seemed like a good idea since the bracket which secures the bleacher seats is adjustable so you could easily adjust the cross bars without having to re-drill your decks. I wish the bleacher seats weren’t so thick though. Maybe rout out the bleacher seats where they cross the fittings so that they drop down between the fittings to make them lower and so that they then rest on the double rails. But then they would have to be screwed to the fittings and would no longer be adjustable.
 
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