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Old 10-03-2007   #1
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 254
Westwater Canyon Climbing?

hey everyone - going for a float trip thru WW in a couple weeks.

i've seen info on climbing in ruby/horsetheif area, but wonder if anyone has any beta on established routes thru the westwater float itself (ranger station to cisco)???

thanks for any info in advance - S

Steve Kahn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2007   #2
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 883
Hi Steve,

I've got 200+ trips through WW and never seen anyone climbing. There may be a reason.

I do know that a great deal of the Westwater area, including the entire right bank from the Fault on down to about Cottonwood Wash, is part of a Wilderness Study Area, and I suppose that could include a climbing ban.

I'd check with BLM Moab to see if there is a restriction or if they have any other info.


Rich Phillips

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Old 10-03-2007   #3
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Summit, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,085
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I would guess that there isn't much in the way of established climbing routes. You'd probably have to explore your own trad climbs. That would make for an awesome extended Westy trip, though.

"The world would be a better place if everyone kayaked."-Brad Ludden (Valhalla)
"You only get one chance to run a drop blind."-DD
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Old 10-03-2007   #4
Crested Butte, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1987
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 298

There is a route directly across the river from Miner's cabin. It is a corner/crack with two belay stations that can be clearly seen. It looks like there are bolts with webbing for anchors.
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Old 10-03-2007   #5
Indian Hills, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 221
I will second that. There are 2 routes across the river from the miners cabin. One is a crack climb with some bolts, and another, I believe about 50 yards down river from it with just a few bolts. I have heard of other climbs but were told they were placed with red hangers so they might be harder to find if you didnt know where to look.
Let me know how the climb is. I have always wanted to give it a go.
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Old 10-04-2007   #6
Carbondale, CO
Paddling Since: 2000
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 132
There is also the moonflower tower (3 pitch 5.11) above the little D campsite. It is detailed in Desert Rock IV.
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Old 10-04-2007   #7
Bugtussle, Kentucky
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 161
Mountain Project: Climbing Westwater Area > Utah
bjett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2007   #8
Boulder, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 178
So I checked with Jason Keith, Policy Director at The Access Fund and he did not mention any outright ban on climbing in WSAs. There is a ban on drilling new bolts in WSAs except in emergencies, so I think if you're not drilling, you're fine.

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