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Old 07-17-2009   #11
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185 lb. waste of space, Keeping Glenwood Springs real
Paddling Since: 1864
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 917
I have only had to take the seat out of my new outfitting (by the way it was broken) once but it went in easier than the old out fitting and it seemed to fit a little better. You didn't have to push the seat out while trying to find the clit. I did spend about 45 minutes yesterday on the old outfitting trying to get the screws in.

970-217-21 six six
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Old 07-17-2009   #12
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Summit, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Any recommendations on what kind of welder to get (and where'd you get it)? How much? Will just a basic small blowtorch work (I've got one in my ski repair kit) or is it worth getting the full on setup?

"The world would be a better place if everyone kayaked."-Brad Ludden (Valhalla)
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Old 07-17-2009   #13
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185 lb. waste of space, Keeping Glenwood Springs real
Paddling Since: 1864
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 917
Ian and I use this one. Don't know about Kevin.
It is ten dollars cheaper until the 20th. I paid 75 with tax

I think a blow torch would melt your boat.
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Old 07-17-2009   #14
Indian Hills, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 221
just got done repairing the gaping hole in my fluid and it seems to be bomber but only time will tell. that crack was a C shape with 2 cracks leading from it, about the size of a softball. i used a heat gun and a hammer (which was heated with the gun as well) to smooth out the heated plastic. i first welded the side cracks and then the main crack to get good alignment. outside of the hull first then the inside. i used shaving from the cockpit rim, just to make sure the plastics would weld together. i put the boat in the sun for an hour or so to get the plastic surrounding the crack as hot as possible and as close to the temperature of the weld as possible. like i said only time will tell.

if the weld alone does not work i will re-weld and then use a technique i read about on here somewhere. it involves using fiberglass with a plastic melting "stuff". i guess you add a timed activator to make a compound that starts to melt plastic and then "turns it off" after 4 or so minutes. i hope the deactivator works, otherwise i will have another nice sized hole in the boat! the fiberglass is just a reinforcement. if i go that route i will post on its ease of use and the end result.

happy boat repairs! love the colorado mank!
Jace Crane
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Old 07-17-2009   #15
Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2004
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,096
The welder linked above is what I use. For $70 its worth it. You can keep a mank boat going for a while with a welder. Good tool, good price, easy to use, and the small tip is precise. You can also weld with a heat gun ($20-25). Its not as precise as the small tip, but you can rig up a small diameter tip using thin metal and a hose clamp.

As for the set up, the welder is really the only tool you need specifically for welding.

For welding rod material I use cut up pieces from an unrepairable boat. I cut 8-10" long rods out of the hull that are as wide as the hull is thick. Consistent width of the rod helps get a uniform weld. Cockpit shavings can work in a pinch, but everywhere you have shaving to shaving connections you have a weak point in the weld. Welding with continuous rod produces a stonger weld.

Welding on the inside and outside is stronger than just one side. For small cracks ( <3 inches) that are not in a high stress area (ie under the seat), I think a single outside weld is fine. For larger cracks or cracks under the seat, welding on both sides is key.

You can use wax paper to smooth out a warm weld. Put one side of the wax paper on the boat, fold the paper over so both halves of the fold are over the weld and smooth out the weld with your hand, putting some pressure and rubbing back and forth. Wax paper to boat shouldn't move to smear the weld, but wax paper to wax paper slides to allow for a nice smoothing out process.

After welding, putting some bitchethane on the inside can help stop leaking if the weld gets a crack in it. Bummer about bitchethane is that impurities make welds weaker, and its hard to get the bitch off once you have put it on.

I also check the boat after every run to look for new cracks or cracks in existing wells. Once the cracks start coming, more are bound to show up.

Nice work on the mank boat Jace.

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