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Old 08-07-2008   #1
VACO

Profile:  Montrose, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1990
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2
raft frame

Considering making my own frame. There are brackets on ebay I saw.
TEE 1-1/4" #7 Speed Handrail Rail Raft Frame Fittings - eBay (item 280225720929 end time Sep-06-08 15:21:45 PDT)

Any comments on the quailty/durability of these, compared to say DRE/NRS parts. Pros/cons. Bad idea to purcahse or not? Thanks for any info.
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Old 08-07-2008   #2
Jon-O

Profile: 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5
Just remember that NRS and DRE use different pipe diameters. Make sure you have the right sized tee to accommodate the rest of your frame.
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Old 08-07-2008   #3
lmaciag

Profile:  Denver, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2002
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 206
Found this when I was researching which frame to buy. You might find it useful in your project.

How to build a river raft frame

Laurie
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Old 08-07-2008   #4
Ponderosa

Profile:  Grand Junction, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2001
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmaciag View Post
Found this when I was researching which frame to buy. You might find it useful in your project.

How to build a river raft frame

Laurie
I built one of these frames this spring following the instructions and purchasing the tee connections from frontier play. Took it on Cat at 28,000 and many other rivers. Works great. Definitely get the thicker gauge tube if you go this route, it is way worth the extra couple $. Also, I used a slow setting epoxy glue to lock everything in place (though that was probably overkill). Have fun.
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Old 08-07-2008   #5
Chip
 
Chip's Avatar

Profile:  SE, Wyoming
Paddling Since: 1986
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 388
Games with Frames revisited. . .

There was a thread on this sort of frame that I posted last year— search Games with Frames. There are several photos of frames built with SpeedRail joints and with Cambridge Welding steel joints via Sid's Sports in SLC. Material specs and detail photos are there, if you read the whole thread.

Here's a shot of a frame for a small cat built this way.

Porco.jpg

For SpeedRail joints, go to <www.hollaender.com>. You can download a catalog and a pricelist. Minimum order $100. They use IPS (Iron Pipe Size) measurements that are confusing. The 1" IPS fittings are actually 1.315" OD and fit the smaller size chainlink toprail tubing (galvanized steel) that I use, mostly (shown in the pics). The 1-1/4 IPS SpeedRail fittings are 1.66" OD and fit the larger size chainlink toprail and the schedule 40 (refers to wall thickness) aluminum tube that NRS uses for their frames. I've built custom add-ons for NRS frames using SpeedRail joints. I think the 1-1/2" IPS size fits the schedule 40 aluminum tube used by DRE, but I haven't worked with it.

There are tricks involved, the most important of which is to place dowels (I use wood) in the tubes where the fittings clamp down. Otherwise the tubing squashes and the fittings will work loose.

Anyhow, it works, and it's fun to build your own frame. You can also change it around as needed.

Chip
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Old 08-08-2008   #6
lhowemt
 
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Profile:  Missoula, Montana
Paddling Since: 2006
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 461
You can also get smaller quantities of speed rail fittings from Down River Equipment. Clavey sells them also.
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Old 08-08-2008   #7
goldcamp

Profile:  Golden, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2005
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 102
How much did it cost you build your own frame vs what it would cost to buy one?
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Old 08-08-2008   #8
Ponderosa

Profile:  Grand Junction, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2001
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldcamp View Post
How much did it cost you build your own frame vs what it would cost to buy one?

Built my frame for about $200. Similar frame from NRS $500+.
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Old 08-08-2008   #9
WestSlopeWW

Profile:  Fruita, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1990
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponderosa View Post
I built one of these frames this spring following the instructions and purchasing the tee connections from frontier play. Took it on Cat at 28,000 and many other rivers. Works great. Definitely get the thicker gauge tube if you go this route, it is way worth the extra couple $. Also, I used a slow setting epoxy glue to lock everything in place (though that was probably overkill). Have fun.
If you build one with the tee connectors mentioned above, make sure you crank the shit out of the set screws, and also carry the correct allen wrench with you on the river. They seem to work themselves loose, which is why the epoxy is a good idea. We had our frame come apart in the middle of a rapid before we learned our lesson.
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Old 08-11-2008   #10
Chip
 
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Profile:  SE, Wyoming
Paddling Since: 1986
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 388
Stuff Costs. . .

Even self-built, a frame ready-to-row (with oartowers, oarlocks, seat, floor, etc. will be closer to $400-500. The problem is that you have to buy your materials at retail prices. The big outfits get the same stuff at 50-60%. So, alas!, it's not all that much cheaper to build your own frame than it is to buy a welded steel one (e.g. from Cascade Outfitters).

One observation: for small rafts and cats, the modular frames from NRS and DRE are way overbuilt, with the same tubing and joints as they use for big boats. Here's a self-built frame for 13.5-ft. Jack's Cutthroat tubes, using 1-inch IPS fittings and galvanized chainlink toprail.

PorcoRosso.jpg

I've had one incident with a frame coming apart, and that was my fault— the front end was held together with only a single crossmember (the footbar). The frame in the photo is the corrected version: boxed (i.e with four tubes) in every dimension. It's been through big water without any problems— no loose setscrews at the end of a run. Search the Games with Frames thread for details.

Chip
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