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Old 10-08-2005   #1
ski/kayak bum
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 460
ocean surfing question?

today in socal was completely sick! Triple overhead outside sets , 10-12 foot sets and constant chest high. Needless to say it was great. It would have been even better had i been able to do the equivalent of a duck dive. One wave per set was the max, due to not being able to get back out. there wasnt a clean channel or area to get to the line-up and the breaks were super heavy. I attacked just like i would a a large hole on a river (perpendicular approach, speed, head down, dig a forward stroke in over the pile) to no avail. i dont think there is such a thing as a boof in the ocean suggestions?


PS. If it matters, I'm in an airhead and i dont really want to change boats.

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Old 10-08-2005   #2
Snowmass ski patrol
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 86
Take your beating and love it... how about the huge wave wheels off the back side if it hasn't all ready broken on you.... Man i love playing in the ocean... Have a blast.... Bet your getting some crazy rides....


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Old 10-08-2005   #3
ski/kayak bum
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 460
best beating ive ever taken.

the faces on the boardsurfers was truly priceless....especially the ones who wouldn't get in. the attitude and localism went right out the window replaced by smiles and curiousity. the swell should hold through the weekend.


twitch/kid hows the water in CO? get out here!
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Old 10-08-2005   #4
kayaker's Avatar
in a van down by the river, California
Paddling Since: 1974
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 126
there is a solution bud, and a good one!

double A:
My kayaking early days were formed learning to surf kayak Nor Cal breaks, where lips are thick and consequences are high. I learned how to get out on big breaks with no channel. Your goal is always: get out quick, read the set, and surf it up.
When you have sus'd out your route back out, and you are paddling to the lineup with intent, sometimes you will be timed to take a big wave. When this occurs, wait until the wave will break on you, then capsize and setup to roll, but do not move.
The wave will smash down upon you, take you through the whitewater - you will be inverted, back onto the kayaks planing surface and without moving a muscle, you will be upright and headed back for the beach, behind the wave. As soon as you figure out what you have done, turn and paddle your ass off to beat the next set coming in.
It works, ask anyone on the US Surf Kayak team.

* Usually breaks have channels to ride out, read the rip tide, follow the current with your eyes... find the channel. If it does not exist, my method will do you well.
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Old 10-08-2005   #5
ski/kayak bum
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 460
like a "turtle" roll in boardsurfing? do you know where i can get film to see it for the timing?


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Old 10-08-2005   #6
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 81
Ok First off when going out on big days you ahve to time the waves right getting over the pile when the wave has crashed is easy, getting over it when it's about to break is hard on a big day stay patient and keep trying, best of luck to you
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Old 10-10-2005   #7
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6
Like Kayaker said

double A, I'm sorry I missed the sets this weekend, I lost the coin flip with the girlfriend so we went climbing.

Kayaker said it right, turtle rolls and looking for the rip tide out.

As for the boof, you may need to add fins. They can give you the traction to climb the green and get air off the top.
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Old 10-10-2005   #8
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 18
I lived in Hawaii for 5 years and had my kayak with me (RPM), you could surf for hours and never get your hair wet since most breaks had clearly defined channels. Beach breaks are hard and looking at a huge wall of water about to break right on your bow can be terrifying, even worse going backwards over the falls.
But why kayak surf when you can board surf, there's nothing like it and you can duck-dive.
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Old 10-10-2005   #9
ski/kayak bum
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 460
i enjoy board surfing but i still suck so this weekend was way too big for my britches....

mustang- where are you at?

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Old 10-10-2005   #10
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 18
I'm back in Colorado but I'd give my left nut to be in california (or Hawaii)catching some of that sweet south swell action you all have been getting. Have you seen and their updates on the recent swells, pretty cool.
Board surfing definitely takes longer to learn and become comfortable at than kayak surfing but catching river waves is similar in some ways to catching stand-up surf waves, similar timing and sweet spot location.
I couldn't bring myself to take my kayak out when the waves were good but I guess each has their personal preference and comfort level.
Also, I can say that taking a overhead wave on the head surfing was mellow compared to the thought of taking the same type of wave in a kayak.

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