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Old 10-11-2005   #11
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 177
Not sure if it would work in bigger waves, but I remember seeing a thing a few years ago of Steve Fisher duckdiving waves on the Zambezi by going at them at like a 45 degree angle and ducking his head straight into the wave with his paddle on the opposite side of his boat and putting all his weight into the wave. I have tried this on large river waves and it works well, but never on a double overhead crashing wave so you might get chundered and end up on the beach broken and beat.


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Old 10-13-2005   #12
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The key is to find the rip tides and always paddle out in them. On big days, especially at beach breaks, the rip isn't always going to be a completely clean channel of unbroken waves. But, you have to remember that the rip is still a very strong current sucking back out to the lineup, and it's usually strong enough to get you back out even when the waves in the path of the rip are breaking. where are you in socal? i'm up in SLO, come up here and I'll take you surfing for real.

The attendant at Ted's Place: "And from now on if I'm working when you come in here, you take as much Nacho Cheese for your burrito as you want- it's on me (wink)."
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Old 10-13-2005   #13
Evergreen, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Mar 2004
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I can see the technique mentioned earlier working on a breaking wave but what about one that has already broken? Its like paddling into a huge deep hole..... so does this technique work even for waves that have already broken?

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Old 10-13-2005   #14
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I paddled with a competitive surf boater from Santa Cruz when I was in Costa Rica, and he showed me a duckdive that he uses with his glass boat in very big breaks. He showed me a couple of them in flatwater on the river & it would appear to work very well, but it's all about timing. As you're coming into a breaking wave with forward momentum, flip over on you back deck w/ your setup as a rodeo roll. Instead of a hipsnap, immediately give your paddle a downward pry above your head. This causes the bow to drive down through the face of a wave (upside down), while the force of the wave's energy travels over your hull. It really has some similarities to the donkey flip, but stalling the roll longer to let the wave pass:

It looked like it would take some practice to really get it to work effectively, and this guy was obviously a very good boater who spent most of his time in heavy surf, so I'm not sure how long it would take to master it. But that's supposedly how it's done.

Whenever I go out in the surf (not often, although I stayed in Dominical for 2 months and board-surfed about 2/3 of the time and boated 1/3 of the time), I would usually charge the wave and turn the boat as high on edge as I could and drove the bow through the wave, trying to minimize the lift up the face. I still got my share of horrendous beatdowns, but it worked most of the time.
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Old 10-18-2005   #15
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 81
Re: ocean surfing question?

Originally Posted by double-a-ron
One wave per set was the max
You're in better shape than I am. I spent the weekend on Folley Beach, SC a couple of weeks ago & there were some monsters out there. By the time I got past the break, I was ready for a break myself. Don't get me wrong, I had a blast out there in my S6F - wide eyed and holding on - but you are right: it's hard to get past the big piles. I kept getting stood up on my stern and pushed over backwards. There isn't anything quite as nice as hacking up a bunch of salt water - except skipping down the face of a great wave!

Try not. Do, or do not. There is no try.
---- Yoda
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