I hit the local run a few days ago which had a shamefully low flow. Needless to say the boat took a beating. I ended up with some NASTY gouges and grooves, some of which look like new body lines. Luckily there are no puncture points, but it's gotta be close.
So I'm wondering if there is a way to repair cross-linked plastic; basically I'd like to fill in some of the gouges and grooves to smooth out the hull again. I'm probably over-worried, but I was wondering if the grooves could give me trouble while surfing a wave, or if the next time I scrape over a rock, the grooves will catch it and puncture the rest of the way through.
Any info or past experience of what's worked/not worked would be great.
I've done it once, and while it takes a while for the solvent to dissolve the plastic from the base material, in the end the repair is pretty much indistinguishable.
I have been told that you can weld cross link plastic it just has a super narrow range of temps, so it makes it damn near impossible. I have never tried to weld cross linked but I know others who have tried unsuccessfully, IMO the best thing to so is just slpa a huge patch o bitchethene on it when it cracks. I don't understand why they use cross-link?, maybe just for marketing, it seems to me that stuff is just another reason no to buy one.
-Tom
I cracked my allstar twice in one run running the narrows are a terribly low level in early may ( I think it was -4 feet on the rock gauge). slapped some bitchathane on it and it held surprisingly well the whole season, no leaks at all. When it finally does crack, give this option a try.
My bad. It was early in the morning, didn't have enough coffee in me, and I read the header as Jack's Plastic. Then, I very obviously didn't pay much attention to the second paragraph....
Are the bandwidth monitors going to charge me for the wasted electrons?
I work for JK and I am not aware of anyway to weld cross link. As Dave and Paul mention, bittuthane works really well for any cracked kayak. My only reason to comment here is to ask when you bought the boat? If in the last three years, there is warranty left on the kayak. 1st year 100%, 2nd year 20% of retail, 3rd year, 40% of retail...
What is probably news to everyone (new for 2010 and forward), Jackson is doing two models of kayaks. We are molding Super Linear and Cross Link both in every model of WW kayaks for 2010. Stars/Hero's/Funs... and the very soon to be released "Villains"!!!! More on that later.
Back to the Super linear discussion... The price goes down for the Super Linear versions. They don't come with Sweet Cheeks/Happy Feet. Just foam for the feet, and a nice looking and really comfy outfitting package for the seat/hips/thigh.
The Cross Link versions move up in designation but are exactly what was standard from years past. Sweet Cheeks/Happy Feet and cross link plastic.
A big difference though is the warranty. The Super Linear version will still have the standard JK 1st year 100%/20% of retail/40% of retail. But we stand behind Cross link as the best/strongest/lightest material out there today for ww kayaks. For that reason we are bumping the warranty on Elite models for 2010 and forward to 2 years at 100% and the third year at 20%. This is pretty solid and nothing comes close to how strongly we warranty our products. You break it... we warranty it... period. Now if there are tire tracks going over the boat, you may have some resistance...
Super Linear is way less expensive a material (30% less actually) and our goal is to offer a kayak that meets everyones needs. So now we have a price point version that compares to our competitors materials and cross link for those that want the most durable plastic and extended warranty. Something else to add, is yes, our cross link boats crack. No boat is impervious, especially boats in Colorado/Rocky Mts areas... But, the key is the warranty for the investment you made... Try us out, if you breaks in the first three years, you will be pleasantly surprised.
Marty (Crawdad)
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"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body. But rather...To skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming... WOW !!!! What a ride!!!!!!"
Marty - Thanks for the reply, I actually emailed the company using a warrantee email address listed on the site, but never got a response, so thanks for the info. My boat is an 08' model, however I bought it used last summer, so I doubt the warrantee transfers....correct me if I'm wrong.
So should I wait for it to crack before using the bittuthane, or could applying the bittuthane now help delay a crack from forming?
Marty - Thanks for the reply, I actually emailed the company using a warrantee email address listed on the site, but never got a response, so thanks for the info. My boat is an 08' model, however I bought it used last summer, so I doubt the warrantee transfers....correct me if I'm wrong.
So should I wait for it to crack before using the bittuthane, or could applying the bittuthane now help delay a crack from forming?
Thanks
You are right that the warranty won't transfer since it is used. However, I bought a '08 mega rocker last year through the buzz and it cracked on its first run. Jackson was amazing at helping me out and I would give them a call instead of email. I had to spend some money, but it was a very fair price for what they sent me.
A friend of mine had the same problem with his jefe, however he bought his brand new. It was embarrassing how LL handled the deal and if it weren't for the local shop owner standing up for him he probably would have been completely hosed (he bought the boat brand new from shop but it was last year's model and they didn't believe it was new).
Don't do any modifications previous to warranty redemption. If you have welded it, your warranty is probably toast. SO try to warranty it prior to bitchuthaning it. With that said, Bitchuthane does rule, and should be in your emergency kit. You can use it cracked boats, blister care or as a bandage on a wound with neosporin.
Linear Mode
