Wasn't that the same guy that was in "Fast Times at Ridgemont High?"
But seriously, I'd like to see them in PFDs and helmets - the ocean has a rythm to the chundering you get so you can come up for air between waves, and generally doesn't have rocks you can get swept into. Granted the full wetsuits give some flotation, but being out there without PFDs sets a bad example on the rivers.
He says "You fall you feel like your going to drown every time but somehow you don't"
Because he's very fit, a good swimmer, and has a surfboard to get onto and paddle to shore.