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Old 04-11-2011   #21
Carbondale, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 19
So based on the input here I have changed overall height of the frame from 15" to 13.5" This gets it to the same depth of the NRS frame. Thanks Cataraftgirl for the pictures that helped (and everyone else that provided input, but I am visual learner). The way that the frame is built I can cut down the framed later, but because the drop bars are a pinned connection they recommend cutting it down in 2" increments.
BmfnL do you have pics of your cat loaded? Would just like to see your rig in action

And on that note, why doesn't this site have a show off your boat thread? Or does it and I missed it?

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Old 04-11-2011   #22
slamkal's Avatar
vancouver, Washington
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,146
I'd ask if they offer the cross braces in a nu-rail 30A modified cross fitting. I think this might be what they use to do the oar towers. This would set the crossbar physically above the drop rails giving roughly two inches more frame clearance (if your cooler etc is designed to sit above the drop rails)


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Old 04-11-2011   #23
wildh2onriver's Avatar
irvine, California
Paddling Since: 1987
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,197
I had a DRE 6 bay frame with a 15" drop on my Leopard for 10 years and running many low water trips such as the MF at 2' and dropping. The only time the front lower crossbar took a hit was on the Owyhee with my brother at the oars. It bent a bit but was easily replaced. Pretty much all these trips were fully loaded with 2-123 qt coolers, a large t-box and table, another large dry box, 2-Jonny Partner tanks and 2 passengers and all the other crap that you have to bring.

Any clearance advantage because of the larger tubes would surely be negated because of the weight involved. That being said, I had to really pay attention in order to move the boat when needed as it took an extra stroke to gain enough momentum.

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