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Old 04-13-2005   #1
redbeard

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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
building a seat?!!

anybody have any suggestions for building a seat out of microcell? I mean, I know I can do it, but it's been done before so I may as well take some hints!

I have an old disco (one or more of you probably knew this boat at some point) that has been cracked on the "ass" of the back hull, topside. also the seat bolt holes have all spiderwebbed and will likely break soon.

it has a necky seat sort of in it, but not secured, and it doesn't look like it will go easily and be safe. so I thought I would try building a seat.

with a rear bulkhead in it right, the crack doesn't flex, and so doesn't open. I will try to plastic weld this as well as the seat bolt holes eventually, but just wanted to get a feel for the whole thing first!!

thanks!!!
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Old 04-13-2005   #2
jonny water
 
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Profile:  Geologist, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1991
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 387
Images: 2
My disco did the exact same thing....it is the comp-weight plastic, right? As far as welding the cracks, I just siliconed the cracks and the bolt holes. I had to do this every 5-10 trips. My welds ended up cracking as well, so silicone worked the best for me. Never built a seat though.
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Old 04-13-2005   #3
redbeard

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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
I didn't notice the plastic being comp weight, but without any outfitting anything feels light, eh?

bought it from someone's girlfriend for ten bucks last year as they moved out of town, now to get it going before the water is!!
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Old 04-13-2005   #4
Caspian
 
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Profile:  Englewood, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 856
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I would check out the Angst site, and any other squirt boating sites out there. Those guys sometimes make a seat, and they are bloody scientists about it. My friend who put this "dark side outfitting" in his SuperEgo loved it and it cut a surprising amount of weight out.
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Old 04-13-2005   #5
mike a

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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 71
Regarding the split: drill a small hole at the end of the split (to help stop it from propogating). Then glue a thin layer (1/2") of minicell to the inside of the boat, completely covering where the crack is. Don't even bother with the welding.

As for the seat--no idea! Post about it (w pics?) when you get done and let us know how it came out!
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Old 04-13-2005   #6
redbeard

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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
there's a good tip for the split! I already drilled the holes, but the foam on the inside should help. right now it's held with a super water resistant form of duct tape, inside and out...

don't know if I should take it on the middle fork of the salmon yet or not... that's why I need to get a feel for it early!!!

thanks!!
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Old 04-13-2005   #7
rasdoggy

Profile:  Tool
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 305
my .02

Instead of using silacone go to West Marine and get some 5200 sealer WAYYYYY better stuff just dont get it anywhere you dont want it including your hands takes weeks to wear off of them and will seal and cure under water to boot.
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Old 04-13-2005   #8
Dave Frank

Profile:  Boulder, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 891
Images: 2
The bet way I have found to patch a boat is with flashing tape. If you are near Boulder I have plenty to give away. It has been on some of my old pyranhas for years without problems.
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Old 04-14-2005   #9
redbeard

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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
hey dave, you sold my buddy mark his pyranha, no? flashing tape, like for roofing? is it metal? lots of tar on it??

I don't know how that would work on this as it is going to be a flex point, or will want to be a point anyway, but tell me more!

so I'm more worried about the seat, such as, should I just go buy a big piece of microcell four inches thick and two feet square and start rasping it? build it with multiple pieces? one big one on the bottom and fill in the sides?? I can figure it out no worries, but just wanted to get the downsides of any of it?

thanks!!


saw people in boulder creek last night!!!!
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Old 04-14-2005   #10
Dave Frank

Profile:  Boulder, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 891
Images: 2
The only pyranha I ever sold was an inazone 232. I've broken the rest, except my present M3. The tape contains no metal. The technical term I believe is Bituthane. Grace vicor is the kind I have. Very tar like and about as thick as 4 layers of duct tape. Very flexible and a little stretchy. I have it on 9" X (very) long rolls. I will happily give away pieces of it.
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